Exploring Orheiul Vechi, Moldova
Photo. Moldova’s Orhei region. Beyond the roads discovering Moldova's ancient soul.
Standing there, I reflected on the monastery’s remarkable story. Over the centuries, it had transformed from a sacred sanctuary into a psychiatric hospital during the Soviet period, only to be reborn once again as a place of worship and peace. Designed by the legendary architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli and crowned by the highest dome in Moldova, Curchi was reclaimed and reopened in 2005. Today, it stands not only as an architectural masterpiece but also as a powerful symbol of resilience, faith, and renewal.
Moldova, a small landlocked country tucked between Romania and Ukraine, is a hidden gem of Eastern Europe. Known for its world-class wine culture, ancient cave monasteries, rolling countryside, and warm hospitality, it remains one of Europe’s least-visited destinations. Yet for curious travellers, Moldova offers something increasingly rare: authentic experiences, rich traditions, and the feeling of discovering a place that still lies beyond the usual tourist trail.
Later, my exploration of Orheiul Vechi carried me deeper into a landscape painted in vibrant shades of green and gold. Perched high above the winding Răut River, I visited the Orthodox Cave Monastery (Mănăstirea Peștera), carved directly into a towering limestone cliff by monks in the 13th century. Inside the small rock-hewn chambers, time seemed to slow. The air was cool and still. The simplicity of the place strongly expressed devotion and endurance.
Ventured deeper into the cave, downstairs, the passage became darker, colder, and much narrower. I carefully watched every step as the daylight slowly disappeared behind me. Curiosity tempted me to continue, but knowing bats could be lurking in the darkness, I decided not to go any further.
As I turned back, I realized that adventure is not always about pushing ahead. Sometimes it is about respecting the unknown and knowing where your limits lie, while still keeping the desire to explore alive.
What made the experience even more memorable was meeting the elderly monk who still lives there, quietly preserving centuries of history. After our brief conversation, I stepped onto a narrow cliff ledge overlooking the valley. Below me, the Răut River curved around the limestone cliffs like a giant horseshoe, shaped a dramatic canyon that traces its origins back millions of years to the ancient Sarmatian Sea.
In places like Orheiul Vechi, the landscape becomes more than scenery. It becomes a bridge between the past and the present, inviting us to see the world, and perhaps ourselves, a little differently.
Stein Morten Lund, 16th July 2026
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