It is the place where football (soccer) means everything, and nothing else. The fanatism is frightening, but incredible fascinating. The enormous atmosphere can take the breath away from whomever. For they who are interested in football Argentina is definitely one of the world best alternatives.
In Argentina, one of the absolute best football nations in the world, football is a typical sport for men. The macho culture is strongly dominating, and the men are using this sport to express their masculinity. The interest for football is extremely strong among the country's 33 million inhabitants, but on the matches the audience are only men. Football is their life and blood. Olè, Olè, Olè,
"Civil war" - state of emergency
Outside the stadiums is it completely chaotic before the matches. On the hate matches between two of the capital Bueno Aires` many top teams, River Plate from the rich area and Diego Maradona`s club Boca Juniors from the working class area, the surroundings looks like a state of emergency. When these rivals are playing against each other you have to go through many checkpoints. So it will take a time before you can enter the overwhelming stadium.
The arrangers don't take any chances. You get checked thoroughly of the police and the military, which reminds you about the feared junta soldiers, but they are very helpful and nice to foreigners. But they can give local supporters a hard treatment if they don't like their behaviour. The police and military are armed from top to toe. Machine guns are a must. Also tangs looking vehicles stand ready in the streets for necessary action. In the front of the ticket desks the situations turns very often out of control. The police and military beat up the supporters with their batons to reorganise the cue again. In other countries this has been apparently considered as police violence.
Photo: Outside River Plate stadium in1993 - tangs is effective to stop the supporter's brutal ravages.
The tickets are fairly expensive. In 1993 and 1994 when I was there, I paid nearly 43 USA dollar (today's rate) for one ticket, but I can ensure you: it was worth it and even more. To take care of your health I recommend you to buy an expensive ticket so you get a safer place.
There is often fighting at these matches. So you have to take your precautions. In the moment the players enter the pitch the whole stadium "explodes".
The 100.000 supporters jump up and down, and yell hysterical. The spit is sparkling out of their mouth. Colourful banners rains over the pitch. You can see both hate and love lightening in their eyes.
The Tango dancing turns totally wild, and the supporters are more in the air than on ground. Songs are song loudly with magical rhythms. The supporter's language is full of swearing words. In almost second word they use "puta", which in Spanish means "hore".
It is frightening, but at the same time incredible fascinating. For they who are interested in football will of course remember the Word Cup finale in 1978 at the legendary River Plate stadium. What an atmosphere, and what a football match!!!!
Photo: River Plate stadium - the tango is out of control - police and military took their actions sometimes during the match.
During the matches it is risky to sit at a lower stage of the stadium. You can get hard items in your head. It is almost a sport for the audience to throw items down on the players, managers and other teams supporters.
Many supporters have died and got serious wounds after being hit by sharp metal items. A good advice is to use hard hats on the matches for protection. The disreputable Argentinean hooligans are called "barras bravas" and they know about warfare.
Playing football in the slum areas
The difference between poor and rich in Argentina is lesser than in other countries in South America. But not everybody lives a life in the sun. Diego Maradona was born in the brutal slum area Villa Fiorita outside Bueno Aires. When he was only 15 years he made his debut for his first club Argentina Junior. Before that he used to entertain the audience, and many thousand people went to see his magical ball touches before the big matches started.
In the slum areas football is the most popular activity and perhaps the only "waste of time". Childs marks up goals with stones, and plays with balls made of old socks and clothes. In these areas football is the meaning of life. It represents almost the only hopes in lousy standards of living. In that way football has a unique position in their society.
Argentinean football - hell or heaven?
This article is based on my own experiences, mixed with fear and enjoyment. I watched some matches in Argentina on my journeys in South America in 1993-94. I can ensure you of one thing: I never forget that. In the world's largest football stadiums Maracana stadium in Rio Janeiro, I picked grass from the pitch. This was a souvenir I took well care of.
The heat in the stadium was terrible. In this enormous bobbling melting pot oxygen masks were available for the players. But I think these masks could be useful for the audience too. Nothing in the world can compares with South American football in any ways. So when it concerns to Argentinean football, the atmosphere can really take your breath away.
More than in an another country in the world football here is about life or death. Argentinean football is an adventure for life. I see your there in the future with a helmet (hard hat) on your head!
Stein Morten Lund, 1 July 2000
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